Big John Harrington: I’ve got the best job in the world

Big John Harrington reckons he’s got the best job in the world.

“I call myself the chief taste tester,” says the patriarch of Christchurch’s Harrington’s Brewery, which this month celebrates its 25th birthday.

John, who’s pushing 75, founded the brewery after he tried retirement at 46 and got bored.

Born in Greymouth, with six brothers and sisters, Harrington used to make a living selling small goods out of the back of a van until his dad suggested he go east.

“In 1971 my dad said to me `go over to Christchurch and get a pub job – I think you’ve got what it takes to run a pub and you’ve got a good woman beside you’.”

So Val and John Harrington crossed the main divide and proceeded to pour “millions of litres” of beer in establishments such as the West Melton Tavern, Hillsborough Tavern and The Grenadier.

In just 15 years they’d built such a successful business the husband and wife team could afford to sit back and watch the money roll in without doing too much themselves.

“I was 45 years old and I decided to retire,” Harrington says. “But I had only four years of retirement. I wasn’t disgruntled or pissed off, but waking up each morning with nowhere to go wasn’t my style – you must have a reason to get out of bed.

“So I thought I’d open a little brewery as my hobby – I told my mates at the Hillsborough Tavern ‘one day I’m going to open a little brewery and sell beers at a reasonable price for you fellas’.

“I’ve had a wonderful hobby for 25 years and that little brewery today has grown into what it is.”

Big John reckons he doesn’t have the same beer twice in a row, but when pushed he admitted if he was restricted to just one Harrington’s beer it would be Classy Red, their extra special bitter.

From the humble beginnings, Harrington’s is now a Christchurch institution. At the height of their dominion they had two breweries – one in Ferry Rd and another in Ferrymead – two bar-restaurants, and nine bottle shops.

A couple of years ago, Harrington’s bought the old Matson’s brewery in Wigram – the start of a strategy to consolidate the business.

Equipment salvaged from Ferrymead has been set up in Wigram and next month the family plan to close the Ferry Rd brewery and put all their operations under one, new, roof.

On top of that they’ve sold the bars and restaurants and are in the process of selling off five of the six remaining the bottle stores, keeping just one associated with the new brewery.

“For our 25th birthday we’ve given ourselves a consolidation,” says Carl Harrington.

And it’s been tougher since the earthquakes, not just because of the loss of production but due to other changes in the liquor landscape.

Harrington said running so many ancillary operations had detracted from the family’s core business of making beer – bottle shops diverted attention and resources. And besides, the shops were also starting to sell more RTDs and spirits which also detracted from the brewery’s desire to sell more beer.

“The bottle stores have changed – they’re not our core business anymore.

“What we’re doing at the moment is a good smart move for Harrington’s,” Carl said. “Not blowing our trumpet, we’ve all worked bloody hard but it will good to look at things a lot differently.

“It’s all about coming back to what we enjoy doing and what we believe we’re good at and want to get a lot better at, which is brewing, bottling and canning beer.

Surviving and flourishing for 25 years, he says, has been “great achievement for the family – it  hasn’t been bloody easy.”

John Harrington still comes into the family-owned business every day to keep an eye on son Carl, who runs things alongside his wife Trudy. Carl’s sons Mason and Quinn, while Val still does paper work.

“Dad’s still loving it,” says Carl. “He’s here every day, mum still helps on the pay and I’ve got my two boys Mason and Quinn working in the business. Having three generations walking round the place is a pretty good feeling.”

Main picture: From left to right: Original brewer Mike Hollings, May Fisher, ‘Big’ John Harrington, Val Harrington, Carl Harrington and Craig Harrington celebrate opening day 25 years ago.